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A who’s Who of the cosmetics industry, these companies weigh in at $176. 18 billion - старонка 3

Subsidiaries + Main Brands in 2010: Perfumes and Cosmetics/Parfums Christian Dior: Addict, Higher, J’adore, Dolce Vita, Tendre Poison, Fahrenheit, Eau Sauvage, Poison, Midnight Poison, Capture Totale, Diorskin, Dior Homme, Dior Homme Sport, Miss Dior Chérie, L’Or de Vie, Escale à Portafino. Guerlain: Issima, Shalimar, Les Aqua Allegoria, L’Instant de Guerlain, Insolence, Vetiver, Super Aqua Serum, Orchidée Impériale, Météorites, Terracotta, Guerlain Homme. Parfums Givenchy: Givenchy Pour Homme, Organza, Amarige, Very Irresistible, Ange ou Démon, Play, Instant Magic. Givenchy Le Makeup. Parfums Kenzo: Flower by Kenzo, Kenzo Amour, Eaux by Kenzo, KenzoKi, KenzoPower. Parfums Loewe. Sephora. Acqua di Parma. Benefit Cosmetics. Fresh. Make Up For Ever. Fendi. Pucci.

In 2010, fragrance remained the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton Perfumes and Cosmetics division’s strongest category, generating 48% of sales. Cosmetics made 34% and skin care, 18%. The division rang up 14% of its revenues in France, 39% elsewhere in Europe, 8% in the U.S. and 6% in Japan. The rest of Asia accounted for 18% and “other markets,” 15%. The division’s profits from continuing operations were €332 million, a 14.1% year-on-year increase. The Perfumes and Cosmetics division generated 15.1% of LVMH’s total 2010 sales of €20.32 billion. Dior, the company’s star beauty brand, benefited from the continuing popularity of the J’Adore, Poison and Eau Sauvage fragrances, while Rouge Dior lipstick, launched in the second half of 2010 with 32 couture-inspired shades, and Capture skin care performed well, too. Guerlain posted record revenues and profits. Its business was strong, particularly in France and China, and sales were boosted by business from the Idylle women’s scent, Shalimar fragrance line plus Orchidée Impériale and Abeille Royale in skin care. Givenchy’s Play for Her fragrance was launched worldwide to good reception, while Benefit, which expanded its presence in the U.S., Europe and Asia, and Make Up For Ever, which posted strong revenues and profits, performed well globally. Kenzo’s business was driven by the ongoing healthy results of the Flower by Kenzo line following a new advertising campaign and a woody version. Officially starting in January 2011, the LVMH Fragrance Brands unit regrouped the sales forces—but not the creative, marketing and communications activities—of Givenchy, Kenzo, Pucci and Fendi. In February 2011, LVMH acquired a 70% stake in the U.K.-based Nude skin care brand and the U.S.-based spa skin care line Ole Henriksen. The purchases were part of LVMH’s ongoing strategy to identify high-potential brands and lead them to further growth. In March 2011, LVMH bought the luxury jewelry house Bulgari.

12. Coty

Rank 12

New York
$3.74 billion (est.)
+6.9% v. '09 (est.)

Subsidiaries + Main Brands in 2010: Coty Prestige: Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Calvin Klein, Cavalli, Cerruti, Chloé, Chopard, Davidoff, Dr. Scheller Cosmetics, Heidi Klum, Jennifer Lopez, Jil Sander, Joop, Karl Lagerfeld, Kenneth Cole, L.A.M.B. fragrance by Gwen Stefani, Lady Gaga, Lancaster, Marc Jacobs, Philosophy, Sarah Jessica Parker, Vera Wang, Vivienne Westwood, Wolfgang Joop. Coty Beauty: Adidas, Astor, Baby Phat, Beyoncé Knowles, Celine Dion, David and Victoria Beckham, Esprit, Faith Hill, Guess, Halle Berry, Kate Moss, Kylie Minogue, La Cross, Manhattan, Miss Sixty, Miss Sporty, Nautica, N.Y.C. New York Color, OPI, Pierre Cardin (for Europe), Playboy, Rimmel, Sally Hansen, Stetson, Tim McGraw, TJoy.

Coty’s 2010 sales increase stemmed from key product launches and existing brands, including Calvin Klein Beauty, Calvin Klein Eternity Aqua, Playboy Female, Beyoncé Heat, Davidoff Champion, Love Chloé, Guess Seductive, Sally Hansen and Rimmel. Coty made major global acquisitions last year that intentionally shifted its portfolio toward cosmetics and skin and body care. In November 2010, it bought Dr. Scheller Cosmetics from Kalina; the Philosophy skin care brand from The Carlyle Group, and professional nail enamel firm OPI Products. In December 2010, Coty purchased Chinese mass market skin care company TJoy. In 2010, fragrances generated 63% of Coty’s sales; color cosmetics, 24%, and skin and body care, 13%. Coty Beauty made 51% of company revenues and Coty Prestige, 49%. Coty’s three largest markets remained the U.S.—making $1 billion—then Germany and the U.K., ringing up $400 million each. Coty’s sales in the Europe, Middle East and Africa zone generated 54% of revenues; the Americas, 36%, and the Asia-Pacific region, 10%. Coty signed a license with the Roberto Cavalli Group for Roberto Cavalli and Just Cavalli fragrances, with Calvin Klein for color cosmetics, and with Lady Gaga and Heidi Klum for scents. In January 2011, private equity firms Berkshire Partners and Rhône made minority equity investments in Coty.

13. Henkel

Rank 13

$3.63 billion (est.)
€2.73 billion (est.)
+8.8% v. '09 (est.)

Subsidiaries + Main Brands in 2010: Retail: Schwarzkopf, Dial, Fa, Taft, Gliss Kur, Schauma, Palette, Diadermine, Brillance, Got2b, Dep, L.A. Looks, Citré Shine, Smooth ’N Shine, Right Guard, Soft & Dri, Dry Idea, Tone, Coast, Pure & Natural, Souplesse, Paon, Fresh Light, Activ Dr. Hoting, Syoss, Haiermian, Perfect Mousse. Professional: Igora, BC Bonacure, Osis, Seah Hairspa, Silhouette, Indola, BlondMe, Essensity.

Revenues from Henkel’s cosmetics and toiletries division, including oral care, rose 8.6% to €3.27 billion in 2010, due to well-received new products and growth in emerging markets. On a currency-neutral basis, sales gained 4.7%. The division generated 22% of Henkel’s total revenues. Operating profits increased 6.1% to €411 million. Economic conditions negatively impacted Henkel’s core markets of Western Europe, where business was lackluster with the exception of Germany, and North America, where sales dipped despite market-share growth. Africa and the Middle East, Latin America and Eastern Europe achieved double-digit revenue increases. Henkel’s largest cosmetics brands—Schwarzkopf, whose annual sales are about €1.8 billion, Dial and Fa—rang up 71% of the division’s revenues. Right Guard expanded into Germany and Eastern Europe. Hair care reached record market-share levels globally. Hair-styling revenues were bolstered by introductions such as Drei Wetter Taft hair spray’s international relaunch. On January 1, 2011, Henkel acquired Schwarzkopf Inc. for €41 million. In May 2011, Henkel sold its almost 51% stake in Henkel India to Jyothy Laboratories.

14. Natura Cosmeticos

Rank 14

Sao Paulo
$2.93 billion
R$5.14 billion
+21.1% v. ’09

Subsidiaries + Main Brands in 2010: Chronos (skin care). Tododia (skin care, deodorant). Ekos (fragrance, hair and skin care; bath and body oil). Mamãe e Bebê (fragrance, hair care, bath and body oil). Amó (fragrance).

Natura, Brazil’s largest beauty products manufacturer, attributed its 2010 revenue growth to increased marketing and a larger global independent sales consultant team, which last year grew 15.6% year-on-year to 1.2 million. In Brazil, there was a 17% rise to just more than 1 million and an 8% increase abroad to 172,000. Natura’s 2010 net profits gained 8.8% to R$744.1 million. International sales jumped 27.2% and generated 7.3% of the company’s total business in 2010, whereas in 2009, those percentages were 42.8% and 6.9%, respectively. Last year, Natura started production operations outside of Brazil for the first time, via a partnership in Argentina. In 2011, it plans to open two more production facilities abroad—also through partnerships—in Mexico and in Colombia. Last year, Natura launched 168 products, versus 113 in 2009, bringing its total count to 877. Since September 2010, key introductions included the Natura Una makeup line and the Amó fragrance, now a company top seller. Guilherme Leal, one of the founders of Natura, was reinstated in April 2011 as a co-president after he temporarily left the company in May 2010 to run for political office. Natura has wholly owned subsidiaries in Argentina, Mexico, Colombia, Peru, Chile and Bolivia. Its products are sold in 11 countries. Natura has one store, in France.

15. Mary Kay

Rank 15

$2.61 billion (est.)
+4.2% v. ’09 (est.)

Subsidiaries + Main Brands in 2010:Mary Kay (skin, sun, bath and body care; makeup, fragrance). TimeWise, MKMen (skin care). Satin Hands (hand care). Velocity (skin care, fragrance).

Skin care remained Mary Kay’s core business in 2010. Among its key product launches was TimeWise Body, its first antiaging body care line, which came out in spring 2010 with TimeWise Body Hand and Décolleté Cream Sunscreen SPF 15 and Mary Kay TimeWise Body Targeted-Action Toning Lotion. Over the past 12 months, other key introductions have included Mary Kay TimeWise Liquid Foundation—offering a wide variety of shades and finishes for different skin types—plus Mary Kay Foundation Primer, Mary Kay Liquid Foundation Brush, Mary Kay Compact Mini, Mary Kay Cream Eye Colors, Mary Kay Cream Blush and Mary Kay Thinking of You Eau de Parfum. Mary Kay’s bestsellers currently include Oil-Free Eye Makeup Remover, TimeWise 3-in-1 Cleanser, the Mary Kay Compact, TimeWise Age-Fighting Moisturizer and the Satin Lips Set. The company counts more than 200 products in its portfolio. It entered Armenia in 2010. Mary Kay’s largest countries remain the U.S., Russia, China and Mexico. In 2010, more than 2 million people made up Mary Kay’s independent sales force in over 35 countries. The company has more than 6,000 independent beauty consultants in the U.S., over 500,000 in China and more than 450,000 in Russia.

16. AmorePacific Group

Rank 16

$2.15 billion
KRW 2.47 trillion
+21.3% v. ’09

Subsidiaries + Main Brands in 2010: Amorepacific, Sulwhasoo, Laneige, Mamonde, Hera, Lirikos, Iope, Hannule, Etude, Innisfree (cosmetics). Lolita Lempicka (fragrance). Amos, Spa Goa, Mise en Scene, Ryoe (hair care). Happy Bath (body care).

AmorePacific Group attributed its 2010 sales gain to the economic recovery and its ability to build brands in diverse distribution channels. In South Korea, where it commands 40% market share, business generated 85% of overall company revenues. Domestically, AmorePacific Group’s luxury cosmetics sales increased 25% year-on-year, driven by the Sulwhasoo, Hera and AmorePacific brands. China and other Asian countries made up 10% of the total; France, 4%, and the U.S., 1%. AmorePacific’s revenues climbed 22% in China. In France, the Lolita Lempicka fragrance brand becameprofitable. Company sales increased 2% in the U.S. Door-to-door made 23% of overall AmorePacific Group revenues, 32% from department stores (which registered 39% growth—the highest of any channel), 22% from specialty stores, 16% from hypermarkets, 5% online and 2% from others. Revenues from the company’s Aritaum cosmetics shops, which sell its brands domestically, grew 24% and accounted for 33% of the premium division’s sales. Luxury cosmetics made up 47% of the firm’s revenues; premium cosmetics, 33%, and mass products, 20%. Etude and Innisfree’s sales increased 41% and 43%, respectively. Pacific Corp.’s name was changed to AmorePacific Group in March 2011.

17. Groupe Yves Rocher

Rank 17

Issy-les-Moulineaux, France
$2.14 billion
€1.61 billion
+6.8% v. ’09

Subsidiaries + Main Brands in 2010: Yves Rocher, Daniel Jouvance (skin and body care, makeup, fragrance). Dr. Pierre Ricaud (skin and body care, makeup). Stanhome World: Kiotis, Stanhome (skin and body care, fragrance). Isabel Derroisné (fragrance).

The Yves Rocher brand—France’s leading cosmetics label in all segments combined, according to Kantar WorldPanel—generated about 60% of Groupe Yves Rocher’s total 2010 sales of €2.06 billion, which rose 6.7% year-on-year. Mail-order and Internet revenues together made up 40% of the company’s total business; brick-and-mortar stores, 35%; direct sales, 17%, and other sources, 8%. Exports rang up 61% of Groupe Yves Rocher’s overall sales last year. France generated 39%; Germany, 10%, and Russia, 9.5%. The company had 15,000 employees—including 7,000 in France and 8,000 internationally—and approximately 220,000 independent employees worldwide in 2010. The Yves Rocher brand continued renovating its store network. By year-end 2010, 450 Yves Rocher boutiques were converted to its L’Atelier de la Cosmétique Végétale botanical-themed format, which boosts sales 15% versus its traditional stores. All of Yves Rocher’s 1,600 international doors should be renovated by the end of 2014.

18. Limited Brands

Rank 18

Columbus, Ohio
$2.1 billion (est.)
+2.5% v. ’09 (est.)

Subsidiaries + Main Brands in 2010: Bath & Body Works: Bath & Body Works Signature Collection, Aromatherapy, True Blue Spa, C.O. Bigelow, Patricia Wexler M.D. Dermatology, Slatkin & Co., Liplicious. Victoria's Secret: VS Fantasies, Dream Angels, Supermodel by Victoria’s Secret, Rapture, VS Attractions, VS Bombsell, VS Pink, Body by Victoria, Incredible by Victoria’s Secret (fragrance). Sexy Little Things, Very Sexy (fragrance, body care). Beauty Rush, VS Makeup (makeup).

Limited Brands’ net profits rose 79.7% to $805 million on net sales of $9.61 billion, up 11.4% in the fiscal year ended January 29, 2011, versus the same prior-year period. Bath & Body Works’ overall revenues were $2.52 billion, a 5.5% increase, driven by the expanded Signature Collection. Twilight Woods men’s and women’s fragrances were among Bath & Body Works’ most successful 2010 product launches. In October 2010, Bath & Body Works entered the Middle East, opening stores in Kuwait and Dubai. Bathandbodyworks.com’s sales continued growing and outpaced the retailer’s brick-and-mortar stores’ average increase. Victoria’s Secret total revenues gained 11.5% to $5.92 billion, thanks to newness and innovation. Its launch of the Incredible by Victoria’s Secret scent—inspired by the bra of that name—also boosted Limited Brands’ 2010 fragrance revenues. Limited-edition seasonal scents, such as The Coconuts, were popular. In late summer 2011, Nick Coe will become Bath & Body Works’ ceo, replacing Diane Neal, who is to be a company advisor.

19. Oriflame Cosmetics

Rank 19

$2 billion
€1.51 billion
+14.9% v. ’09

Subsidiaries + Main Brands in 2010: Oriflame (makeup, skin care, fragrance, toiletries).

Business in core markets of Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union rebounded strongly in 2010, helping to drive Oriflame’s overall 2010 sales. The company’s business in Russia, the Commonwealth of Independent States and the Baltics grew 19% to €861 million and contributed 57% of overall company revenues and 86% of its operating profits last year. Sales from Asia, which made just under 10% of total revenues, and Latin America, which contributed 6%, posted sales gains of 27% and 35% (Oriflame’s steepest uptick), respectively. On a like-for-like currency basis, Oriflame’s 2010 revenues grew 8%. Net profits rose 17.2% year-on-year to €117.5 million. The company’s fragrance business—boosted by the launches of Midnight Pearl and Flamboyant—grew fastest among its product categories and rang up 21% of company sales. Color cosmetics generated 24% of business; skin care, 22%; personal care, 20%, and other, 13%. Oriflame’s global sales force increased 8.6% to about 3.8 million. By year-end 2010, the company sold its products in 61 countries. Oriflame was forced to leave Iran in 2010 by government authorities there.

20. Alticor

Rank 20

Ada, Mich.
$1.97 billion (est.)
+5.1% v. ’09 (est.)
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